Category: BEER Home Brewing

Articles that I write about my adventure in brewing beer, everyone should be doing this!!!

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BEER Home Brewing

Belgium Beers

We here at Kodiak LOVE!!!!! Belgium type of beers.  Our favorite is the Belgian Dark Strong Ale in the Winter months and in the summer months we like to brew the slightly lighter style, the Belgian Tripple Ale, which is on the lighter side of color, with a hint of orange spices.  The Belgian’s are enormously delicious beers, and to us, nothing compares!!!  sure we like other style too, but we feel like a King of the Bears in the woods when we drink the Belgians!

It is also true that the Belgian’s are typically higher in Alcohol content, but I can’t imagine anyone complaining about that!  If its good enough for a monk, it should be good enough for you!

Anyways, everything said – we really think it is important to understand the History of the different beer styles and regions they come from, especially if the Belgian’s are also your favorite beer too, because here specifically, there is a lot of History!

Wikipedia just so happens to have a great page already written about this and so without further delay here is the link, Cheers!

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Beer_in_Belgium

 

 

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BEER Home Brewing

Re-Using Re-Capture Yeast after fermenting, Beer Home Brew

DSC_0178

This process comes under different names, re-using, re-capturing, rinsing, cleaning, etc.. etc., but basically after you remove the beer from the fermentor – there is a lot of nice and high quality yeast that is left over.  You can re-capture this yeast and use it again and again, and again……

Benefits are many!

  • save money, high quality yeast usually costs $8 a pack, so you can reduce the bill of each brew batch substantially
  • to brew a stable beer that comes out the same all the time, it is important to use the same strain of yeast to be consistent
  • you can easily make a lot more yeast than what you started out with from the packet, so if you wanted to say brew a bigger batch of beer, say 10 or 20 gallons, there is no need to buy 4 packets at $8 each – because you can easily make that your self
  • the yeast becomes better over time and creates even better beer, the more you re-capture the same yeast, the better the yeast becomes

It is best to collect yeast strain that you will use frequently, because if you collect some rare yeast that you don’t use a lot, just be prepared to use more real estate space in the fridge and potential stares from the wife (unless you have a dedicated fridge).  And so it is best to collect a house/classic strain, that works over broad temperatures.

Here is how we do it at Kodiak.  We put two clear growlers filled with water already into a nice 3 gallon cooking pot (also filled with water) and we heat that up to boiling and let it boil for 15 minutes.  Turn off heat, let it sit for a minute or two and remove the growlers out of the pot with a heat glove and put it on the side to cool.  Put caps on it but don’t tighten them, let them cool!

ALL the water that will make contact with the leftovers needs to be cool, it can’t be hot!!!

We like to transfer the bottom stuff let over from the fermentor into the cooking pot that we just used.   So pour in some water into the fermentor from the pot and shake it well, then transfer the ingredients from the glass carboy into the (empty) cooking pot, put a lid on it.  Let it sit for a good 30 minutes to separate out into layers, see below:

You will have water mixed with beer as the clear liquid on top, then a nice light layer of yeast, and a darker layer at the bottom of throb (left over beer reaction stuff)…

You want to get rid of the beer/water mix if there is an excessive amount out, and pour in the rest into 1 of the empty growlers. As you are pouring into growler #1 the lighter yeast layer towards the end of that, the throb will start (the darker stuff).  You don’t want to transfer the throb out of the pot or (however you do it), leave that behind, that’s the whole idea between doing the layer washing, leave the throb behind, the darker lowest layer.  If some transfers, that’s ok; but leave the majority of it!

Put in some clean fresh water from the boil into that and shake well and let it sit in the growler again for 30 minutes.

Here is how the growler will look after transfer, after shaking, looks like mud….

After 30 minutes pour the contents (using the same method) into the 2nd growler, let it sit there for 30 minutes.  If you have more empty clean growlers you could give it a 3rd transfer, but we at this point just leave it as is, label the growler and put into fridge!

Here is how the layer looks after separating in the 1st growler:

See that nice light layer at the bottom ?  that’s what you are after.  In this example and article, we actually didn’t even employ transferring into the 2nd growler, because this works so well!

Keep in mind that the yeast that you just recovered, there is much more of it than when you started from the yeast packet that you bought for $8 at the brew store.  Some people divide into smaller jars, where each jar = 5 gallon batch, but we just leave as is.

On the label I would also put the date of the re-capture!

Before using this yeast, make a starter!

In addition to our method others exists.

Cheers!

make your own search too!

 

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BEER Home Brewing

making a yeast starters, beer brewing

 

Starters are done to wake up the yeast and get it nice and active, so that by the time it is introduced to the wort (un-fermented beer), it goes right to work.  Starters do a better job of converting all the sugars and preventing any unwanted flavors in the beer.  This generally reduces the fermenting period and just overall does a better job in making better beer.

We have made many great beers simply by pitching dry yeast over the top, but other better method do exist and this is one of them.

  • an Erlenmeyer Flask (made out of Pyrex) used is laboratories, [able to withstand extreme cold or heat temperature exchanges], cover top with aluminum foil
  • 2 cups of water
  • DME – Dry Malt Extract, 1/2 cup, the light versions don’t much affect the final beer recipe
  • yeast

Mix the water and DME in a pan, mix that all up and bring it to a rolling boil, then as soon as the boil happens, let that boil for 10 minutes, turn off.

Transfer the wort into the Erlenmeyer flask and then you can dip that into cold water with ice and cool it that way, its a small volume of wort, so won’t take long to cool, you don’t need any fancy equipment to cool it with.

If you don’t use the flask, the quick temperature exchanges of hot to cold will probably crack the glass, so that’s why you want to use it, plus it looks cool :- ) like you know what you are doing!

Get it down to about  75 F or about there.  Put your yeast into the flask, if you are OCD, then get it off the sides of the flask, so it is nice and clean.  Put some aluminum foil over it.

Leave it at room temperature just like you would your wort.

You are making basically a mini-beer, so you want to employ all sanitation principles like you would normally do with making regular beer.

This recipe is good for 5 gallon starters, if you are going to make larger batches, then you might need a bigger flask, use common sense :- ) ask people if you are not sure, join a beer forum.

Stir Plates are a good idea, most semi-serious+ brewers own and use them all the time…

 

you can buy one or make one if you want to, here is a DIY:

http://blog.makezine.com/2006/08/10/diy-magnetic-stir-plate/

Fin.

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BEER Home Brewing

Cold-Dropping Beer

Many various techniques exists, some people drop after fermentation is over and before bottling, and yet some simply cold-drop the kegs already filled with the beer for about a week, before serving, I will explain both.

Most home-brewed beer is left in a lot of its natural state, most people don’t use filters for example, there are debates over its pros and cons.  If you don’t filter your beer, there is always going to be a small amount of yeast and other floaters that will make it out of the fermentor and into kegs or bottles (if you bottle).

Even when you can’t see it, yeast is suspended in the beer and it does affect its look, color, taste and overall body of the beer.  So what a lot of people do, is take the keg and cold-drop it, or simply put, put it into a fridge (whatever setup) as cold as possible, but still above freezing and leave the keg there for about a week.

All the yeast and other floaters that are suspended in the beer will fall to the bottom of the keg, a thin layer will form at the bottom (not in any way bad), so then all the beer that comes out will be nice and clean, crisp, nice color, taste, and everything will improve SUBSTANTIALLY.

If you were to split a batch of beer into two kegs, and cold-drop one and not the other, you would see and experience the differences, if you want to do a comparison.

If you don’t employ a cold-drop and simply put the keg into the keggenator fridge, it too will help, the cold temperature will basically do the same thing, but will take a little longer, so don’t worry if you can’t get it to almost freezing.

Some people apply this technique to the fermentor after the fermentation is done and over with, for about a week, so then when the beer is transferred to the kegs or however bottled, there too you will gain a lot of benefit.

Fin

 

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BEER Home Brewing

How to get grain for brew recipes

Brew stores of course sell grain, they also should sell kits, in the very least extract kits and better stores might even sell all-grain kits.  But the best way to learn is to get your own grain, weight it, crush it – this will give you the flexibility you are after, so you can tweak the recipe if you think it would come out better in a slightly different way.

There are basically two types of grain categories base grain and specialty grain.

Base grains make up the base of your beer, that’s why they are called that and typically the American 2-row barley is used for the base grain (but there is also 4 and 6-row too) and wheat too if you are going to brew a wheat beer.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Barley

As for specialty grain, there are quite a bit of those, a lot actually – so the best way to get familiar with all of them and look at them is to go to your local brew store.  Grain is not that expensive, base usually sells for $1.00 per pound, and a typical 5 gallon batch might need anywhere from 8 to 12 pounds of base grain, so you are not talking a lot of money.

Also the better stores will sell 50 lb bags of grain for some additional discount.

To be able to buy grain directly from the Malt house requires a federal license in most cases, which most home brewers lack, unless they also running a micro-brewery in the back of their house or something like that…. :- )

Each specialty grains does something to the beer, to its profile, to its taste, its body, its color, its outcome, and this is well known and so with beer software you can make your very own beers (via trial and error) from scratch if you want!

http://www.beertools.com/html/ingredients.php?view=grains

Take a look at the link above and read what each type of grain does to a beer, takes a while to learn all this, so don’t worry about it.

Most brew stores, the better ones will have a room dedicated to this, if they have the space.  Ask the rules if you never been there before, but generally speaking you find your grain bin, weigh the grains in the order that you need them, dump the grain into some bag and as last step you throw all the grain into a mill to crush your grain.  The stores mill will be pre-set, as most are.

If you want the grain crushed a certain way other than the pre-set, don’t crush the grain, bring it home with you and use your own technique or mill setup.

There are all kinds of mill setups out there – and so instead of showing one picture, here is a link to the Google search via image and you can see many different setups:

https://www.google.com/search?q=grain+beer+mill&oe=utf-8&aq=t&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&client=firefox-a&um=1&ie=UTF-8&hl=en&tbm=isch&source=og&sa=N&tab=wi&ei=aA6EUNuvDuvDiwLfvIHgCA&biw=1920&bih=1005&sei=ag6EUPz8JOOsigL_74D4CQ

well, that’s it for now – bear needs to go and use the hot-tub.

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BEER Home Brewing

Understanding Gravity in Beer Brewing, OG, FG and SG – What ?

This bear has brewed many batches of beer for private use and has totally neglected to do any sort of gravity measurements at all.  The beer came out really good, definitely had alcohol in it (trust me) – but because it was for private consumption and this bear can get sometimes kind of lazy (yawn), this bear didn’t even bother or even care to take the measurements – bad bear!  just bad!

In reality you should take these reading and records them, learn – keep a log, even if you re-do the same batch over and over, because its important for a variety of reasons, which I am about to explain.

A hydrometer is used to read the specific gravity of un-fermented (wort) or fermented (beer).  http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hydrometer

This device measures the relative density of wort/beer or SP (Specific Gravity)… there is also:

OG – Original Gravity (gravity taken after brewing beer finished, but before fermentation starts)

FG – Final Gravity (gravity taken after fermentation is done)

O.G. 1.056 (minus) F.G. 1.012 = 0.044 then multiply that by 131 to get 4.192% alcohol by volume approximate (example).

The hydrometer rating should be taken at a specific temperature of 59F / 15 C, and rarely people when taking readings get it that right temp, so that’s why you take a temperature reading.  In addition you can use a calculator that also has temperature adjustments for the formula, so record the temperature too for both OG and FG readings in your log.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alcohol_by_volume

The less dense the liquid is (after fermentation), the deeper the hydrometer will sink into the liquid.  The more dense it is (before fermentation), the less deeper it will sink into the liquid.

also – look at your hydrometer, it will say at what temperature to take the perfect reading, and it was calibrated at, on mine it reads 60 F and it should tell you the alcohol by volume right on the scale inside the glass.  Some are made differently, so look at yours.

If you pick up a recipe that someone wrote or it came with a kit that you have purchased, it will have printed the expected OG range that you should get after finishing to brew beer.

Usually it is very difficult to get it spot on, so a Range is provided, and as long as you are within this range, you should be ok, example OG Range: 1.056 ~ 1.061.

You probably have noticed that the gravity reading number goes down after the fermentation is over, that is because the yeast will convert sugars into alcohol and alcohol is less dense and the gravity meter measures what ? density, super simple at the high-level.

To give you an idea, the hydrometer is also used in other applications, not just beer; for example in the salt water aquarium hobby, you start with fresh water, then add salt until you reach a certain safe and acceptable range.

If you are going to brew beer for commercial consumption, than this is super important, because if you claim that the beer is 7.2% on the beer label, but it is 5.1%; than you have a problem, don’t you ?

So it is a good idea from day one to get used to doing this and it will help you to understand another critical aspect of brewing and that is the efficiency method that you are employing during the mash phase to extract the sugar from the grain.

How will you know if the mash is doing well, if you never take a reading and you assume this ? you won’t know!

So even if you are not a commercial brewer, but want to confirm that you are doing the mashing correctly and your method or setup is working as intended, there is only one way to know and that is to take a gravity reading!  Or what if you employ a new method and you want to compare to see which one does better ?

There is also another type of measuring device called a Brix Refractometer; but it needs to be calibrated, the hydrometer, not so much.

There is a benefit to this tool!  While you are mashing, you can put a drop of the wort into the Brix and it will tell you the specific gravity, so that’s a plus for this tool and a lot of people use it for that reason, before you begin the process of actually brewing beer, so that if the reading isn’t right, you maybe have time to make some adjustment to improve the mashing process.

Its best to own both if you are a serious home brewer :- )

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brix

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Refractometer

and they come in different shapes and sizes, including laboratory grade equipment that is tested and certified.  We recommend the old fashioned way of using the hydrometer – cheap, reliable and did I mention its cheap ? and it don’t require batteries ?

Fin.

 

 

 

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BEER Home Brewing

Follow us on Twitter @kodiak_seattle

If you like our web site, like the writing and want to get more in the future and who knows where this will end up; please follow us on Twitter :- )

@kodiak_seattle

 

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BEER Home Brewing

How to Brew from Grain

Cleanliness is Godliness!  Memorize that, seriously!

I said, ROAR! ~ Cleanliness is Godliness!  not so much during the brewing process, but after the brew process has been completed, everything the beer comes in contact with (un-fermented or fermented) needs to be clean and sanitized!  Otherwise the beer can go bad.  We have yet to have a single batch go wrong!

Is brewing beer legal ?  Hell ya!

http://www.homebrewersassociation.org/pages/government-affairs/statutes/washington

Check your states from the drop-down in the link above!

If you live in a different country other than US of A, check your local laws; hopefully it is legal too, if not move or don’t tell anyone!

For cleaning various products exists!  For sanitation, we like Star San, it has never let us down!  So you clean first and then sanitize!  That includes the fermentor, everything, the transfer lines, later when you bottles, the actual bottles need to also be sanitized and or Kegs, the rubber seals, EVERYTHING ROAR!

did I scare you yet! ? I hope so!  :- )

Beer is usually made from extracting sugars from grain like barley or wheat, its that simple!  Beginners brew beer from extracts.  Extracts already went through the process of extracting the sugars from the grain(s) and leaving it in extract form of various sources…

Most people when they start to brew, start with extracts, because the entire stage of going through various methods and steps to extract the sugars has already been done, so you can go straight to brewing beer.  The steps are as follows:

A) extract sugars from grain (you can skip if you are using extracts)

B) start to brew beer by mixing water with extracts (sugars), hops, other additives

C) after brewing beer is done, this is called wort (un-fermented beer), you cool, transfer the beer into a fermentor and pitch the yeast (various methods exist from beginner to more advanced)…

Let’s Begin…

If you want to really learn about beer brewing, you have to learn how to brew from grain, there is no escaping that!  There are also major economical reasons for doing this because brewing from grain is much cheaper $$$ than brewing from extracts and also a level of control is gained that is only available to you when you brew from grain.

A beer recipe will have various types of grains mixed into the recipe, some of the grain is base grain and some of it will be more fancier grain types.  The grain needs to go through a malting process (without this you are wasting your time), the malting process un-locks and makes available the various sugar types in the grain available to the beer extraction process.

There is already a great Wiki on the subject of malting so here you go: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Malt

So brew stores sell the grain that is already malted, so there is nothing to worry there, but if you were to grow say 2-row barley, after harvesting it and all that you would have to malt it (another layer of work) that mostly is not talked about in the beer brewing process.

Malting Houses do this work and then breweries buy the grain from them and also brew stores.  Also after the grain has been malted, it needs to be crushed, this is another crucial step (so make sure that if you buy a brew kit, the grained has been already crushed), if not you have to do that and also correctly.  The grain has to crush just so so….  You can buy a manual mill too, those are usually preset for the correct crush settings.

When you brew beer from extracts and skip this stage, you really only need 1 brew kettle, but when you go through the extraction process, you will need additional equipment.

In addition to the kettle, you will need another kettle with a built in thermometer, and this is called a mash tun; because you will literally be mashing the grain with some big spoon.

You will also need another 3rd container that will hold the strike water, that is water that has been heated to the proper temperature that you will introduce to the start of the extraction process, later steps also.. so 3 total kettles of some sort.

All of this is covered here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lautering

Here is an example of a product picture to show:

A lot of people buy kegs and cut holes in the top and install values in order to turn them into brew keggles.  These are 15.5 gallons so you can brew smaller batches or bigger ones, all the way to up to 12 gallons, leaving some head room for the brewing process.

How to make a keggle without killing your self (that’s another article left for another frosty day), just know that brew pots, especially the bigger ones are not cheap, you are talking about $250 and up, sometimes even $500; but a used keg can by bought for $50 +/- (craig list) and converted with little effort, and people swear by those, including us here at Kodiak Brewing!  they are made like a tank and will last you a life-time and after you die, someone else can continue to brew in them, enough said….

Also most kegs are made from stainless steel, this is the preferred metal, but also aluminum pots are used, this metal is cheaper/lighter metal and will stain black when used, stainless steel stays nice and clean and does not get discoloration, but is heavier.  We have brewed in aluminum pots and this is as far as we know, only a visual thing, it does not affect the quality of the beer or change its color.

If you are not good making things, just buy a converted keggle, people make them!  :- )  check your local craig-list.   < picture coming up >…

So when you buy an all-grain kit, it will come with instructions, how much strike water to start out with, and the mash temperatures and durations, sparge (a hot shower), etc… I recommend getting a kit and following the instructions.

Once you have successfully brewed a few times, then you can assembly your own ingredients and make your own instructions and mix and match your grains.  Never be afraid to experiment, because that is in fact how the craft brew industry got to the point where it is now.

The basics of a grain brew from start to finish is (but varies of recipe and instructions)…

  •  pre-heat the right volume of starting water (strike water) and transfer that into the mash tun
  • add all our grains into the mash tun and mix it (mashing begins)
  • after the right time, transfer the hot sweet liquid from the mash tun to the brew kettle
  • for efficiency reasons, you want to re-mash or sparge the grain a 2nd time (various techniques exists), batch sparging is popular and attains about 85% extraction efficiency+  batch sparging is an older method that is undergoing a revival – Google…
  • you also maybe want to employ a re-circulation technique, this turns the grain into a filter and allows clean liquid to exit from the mash tun
  • once the mashing phase is done, that’s when the brewing actually start, you will again follow the recipe and adds other ingredients (spices, various different types of hops) at different times into the brew time
  • Once the brew time is over, you want to cool the wort (unfermented beer) as quickly as possible (again various equipment and style exists)
  • Don’t forget to take a OG water gravity reading, write that down (later you have to take a FG reading, to find out how much alcohol will end up in the beer) – read the other article here in the Blog
  • then you want to transfer the wort to a fermentor and pitch the yeast (again various different methods exist for pitching the yeast, some yeast is dry and some is wet, sometimes you make starters and sometimes you don’t), different people swear by different techniques.  We here at Kodiak have made lots of great beer simply by pitching dry yeast, but if you were a commercial brewer and you wanted consistency, you would cultivate your own yeast and maintain the strains :- )  Many books exists just on the subject of yeast and it is just as important as any ingredient

After the fermentation is over, you might want to consider secondary fermentation.  You can naturally corbonate the beer with priming sugar or transfer to kegs and use co2 gas.

Some people bottle, some don’t, some use kegs, some use growlers, its up to you!

At Kodiak Brewing we don’t bottle (because that just takes way too much time), we keg all our beer, unless we are going to give our the beer as gifts for other people to try, then we would bottle into 1 pint bottles.

From our experience, aging the beer is very important, good beer only comes with age.  Different styles of beer require different aging times, some 2 months, some 3, 6 and some even a year.

Commercial breweries also use filters to speed up the aging process, but there is a Pros and Cons to everything in life, including using filters.

If this sounds like an overwhelming article, it’s not.  You just have to go through to process a few times and the stars will slowly start to align, you will fall deeper and deeper into brewing.

There is no better way to learn than through experience, so go out there and don’t be afraid.

This article does not cover everything, or other fancy terms; that you will learn once you decide to roll up your sleeves and take the plunge; but it covers almost all the basics that you will need.

Also a good read is this Wiki: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mashing

You also want to learn about enzymes, Alphas and Betas and why temperatures are important during the mashing phase.  Also look into pH, learn that and the fact that proper pH matters for the extraction efficiency, so that also leads to water quality.

Is your water soft or hard ?  Are you on city water or well water like we are ?  Should you have your water analyzed or not ?  What about trace elements, do you have the right amount or not ?

Duration and pH variances also affect the sugar composition of the resulting wort!

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brewing

Fin.

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BEER Home Brewing

Paint Stencil on Your Beer Keg

So this is actually my first ever stencil, I am not a Pro at all, I have never done this before until this article 30 minutes prior.

I started by viewing a few HowTo videos on YouTube, and then decided to try it using a basic method first.

Steps:

#1 Print the image

#2 Cut out the inside of the image with household scissors

#3 transfer the cut out to harder paper (pizza box card-board used)

#4 cut out the pizza box card-board using scissors again

#5 tape the template to keg (after carefully choosing its final location)

#6 using a paint can, shake it well first and using steady uniform strokes paint

Tip: move the paint can using horizontal uniform strokes, don’t spray in one spot for too long (pain will run)

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BEER Home Brewing

2nd fermentation stage BEER brewing

It’s time that I write another short blob/blog/whatever 🙂 about making your home brewing experience better with minimal extra steps and effort.

This the 2nd fermentation stage.  So after a week or so, maybe even sooner, ( as most fermentation activity will stop in 3-4 days ), you will gently transfer the beer from the Primary container to the Secondary container (the container can be a glass carboy/plastic [food grade] fermentation bucket, or whatever you have to work with.  The 2nd fermentation tank will also have a co2 cap, so that nothing bad can get into the container…

I would use some kind of a tube to transfer the beer, and not disturb the primary fermentation tank, this will leave all that nasty brewers yeast at the bottom, where you want it.  While there are some benefits of consuming the brewers yeast (vitamins), most people don’t like to see that in their beer and you will almost never see that in the store.

Commercial brewers use in addition filters too and additives as well!

Most of the fermentation takes place in the Primary container, so this is a bit miss-leading, about further fermentation, but there will be a bit of that going on, mostly you won’t notice it.

Most beers can be done with a single-fermentation stage, but once you do the 2nd stage and see all the benefits from that, you will never go back to the single-stage again, trust me!

Here are some of the benefits as I observed it:

  • most of the brewers yeast is left over in the primary vessel (left behind)
  • whatever does make it into the 2nd stage, will settle at the bottom over time and cake into a harder layer
  • the beer will be much clearer, cleaner and crisper!
  • you can leave the beer in the 2nd stage for months, if you are not ready for whatever reason to bottle/keg just yet
  • fermentation becomes more complete
  • much fewer off-flavors
  • dry hopping – http://www.beersmith.com/blog/2008/05/21/dry-hopping-enhanced-hops-aroma/
  • including additional ingredients to enhance flavors, aroma, smell, etc….

there are other benefits, if you brew lager beer, the word lager literally means” to lay down”, and other stronger beers also need the extra time to age and become more mellow for the flavoring.

When you transfer the beer into the 2nd fermentation stage, it is best not to leave any head-room, (empty-space in the vessel), because air is there and oxygen degrades beer.  If you do end up with a little bit off extra space, put a table-spoon of priming sugar into the container, that will react with the yeast and produce a little-bit more alcohol and co2, and the co2 will force out any stale air out of the container, while preventing anything from the outside getting into the vessel.

You can also force in some co2 gas if you keg to force out the oxygen out and cap it.

I also recommend that you do a search on youtube and spend a little-bit more time watching over some videos that other people have made, I would watch a few to get the better idea of what you have to do, sometimes it is better to view a video (when you are just starting out)…

Keep on brewing! :- )