Belgian Stout All Grain Recipe

 

September 11th, 2016 Brew: ( 10 gallon batch )…

OG 1.080 // Sep 11, 2016

FG 1.012 // Sep 24, 2016

Fermentation took a solid week.  ABV 8.9% // SRM 25

90 Minutes Mash at around 148F, followed by a 45 minutes at 158F, then mash-out at 170F // what we did different this time, used more grain and no Belgian Candi was used.  Also, the 2 lb of Caramel 40L was split into 1 lb 40 and 60 Caramel each.

grain schedule (cost of grain bill was $47 from a brew store

  • Pale 2-row 27.50 lb
  • Torrified Wheat 1 lb
  • Chocolate Malt 350L 1.5 lb
  • Caramel 40 Love 1 lb
  • Caramel 60 Love 1 lb

hops schedule (whole hops cost was free, since we grew our own hops // pellet we buy it by the pound, this way cost averages down by ounce )

  • 1.5 oz of whole hops Cascades, at start of boil
  • 1 oz of pellet hops, Cascades at 30 minutes
  • 1 oz of pellet hops, Cascades at 45 minutes + Irish Moss

yeast (we maintain our own, so this is almost free)

The yeast was the 1214 Belgian Abbey from 2014 brew which was sitting in the fridge all this time; we made a starter, and like a Boss!  2 liter starter, 48 hours.

 

 

 

December, 2014 Brew below:

2015-01-15

Mash schedule:

90 minutes at 142F, than raise temps to 158F and hold for an additional 45 minutes, Mash out.

Over Ratio Grains Recipe:

  • 80% pale 2-row
  • 5% torrefied wheat
  • 5% Belgian Chocolate mail
  • 10% Caramel Malt (40L)
  • 1lb of Belgian Dark Sugar Syrup

Hops schedule for a 5 gallon batch:

  • 1 oz at start of boil – Willamette
  • 1 oz at 30 minutes – East Kent
  • 1 oz at end of boil – East Kent

for this recipe however we used Cascade hops for the whole thing, because we have a lot of them from the 2014 Harvest :- ) and also, these were the exact grains that we used, sometimes you have to substitute based on what is available where you live, you can also order exact grains and have them delivered, probably costs more money…

For the 10 gallon batch, we used:

  • 24 pounds of Golden Promise – which is a pale 2-row malt
  • 3 pounds of Crystal Malt, 40 Lov. (40L)
  • 1.5 pounds of British Chocolate Malt (450-500 L)
  • 1.50 pounds torrified wheat malt – it increases head retention and body / version of flaked wheat
  • 1 LB of Dark Brown Candi Sugar
  • 1 LB of Dark Belgian Candy Syrup
  • double the hot schedule for a 10 gallon batch ( see above )

We used 1214 Belgian Abbey yeast on this one!

12/21/2014 Brew OG 1.082

Videos:

mashing stage with re-circulation:

boil stage:

fermentation stage:

 

14 - 1 14 - 2

Ferment for 2 ~ 3 weeks at about 70F, read your yeast specs…

Yeast – many different type of Belgian yeasts exists, please do your research…

Achouffe — Wyeast 3522 (Belgian Ardennes) and White Labs WLP550 (Belgian Ale)

Chimay — Wyeast 1214 (Belgian Ale) and White Labs WLP500 (Trappist Ale)

Du Bocq (Corsendonk) — Wyeast 3538 (Leuven Pale Ale)

Duvel Moortgat — Wyeast1388 (Belgian Strong Ale) and White Labs WLP570 (Belgian Golden Ale)

Rochefort — Wyeast 1762 (Belgian Abbey II) and White Labs WLP540 (Belgian Abbey IV)

Orval — White Labs WLP510 (Bastogne Belgain Ale)

Unibroue — Wyeast 3864 (Cana-dian/Belgian)

Westmalle — Wyeast 3787 (Trappist High Gravity) and White Labs WLP530 (Abbey Ale)

 

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Counter Pressure Bottle filling // a must for every beer brewer

counter_pressure_filler

A Counter Pressure bottle filler is a great device that is almost a need to have for any serious home brewer.  You can make your own too, but it is recommended to just buy one – unless you have a proven design and access to good parts.

You will get clear, sediment free beer :- )

We really like the one valve design with a pressure relief valve on the left side, this allows for pressure to escape as you fill the bottle with beer/co2 – otherwise the beer flow would stop… it also allows for foam to escape once it is towards the top.

Tip: Many people recommend that you cool down the beer before filling as this eliminates foam problems, but we found that if you release all the built-up pressure in the Keg first, before connecting the co2 input for this process, it almost eliminates all the foam issues even when filling warm beer that has not been cooled at all – and you can totally skip this step.

In this video we show how the bigger bottle was filled… this was warm beer from the keg at room temperature.

As you can see from the pictures below, you can fill all kinds of bottle sizes and after a few bottles you will get a hang of it really quickly.  We fill our bottles at about 11 psi… with a T splitter from the co2 bottle (meaning) that we split the gas line, and left side goes to feed the Keg and right side goes to feed the counter pressure device.

  1. Purge all the air from the bottle with co2, squirt some gas as you insert the device into the bottle
  2. adjust your pressure relief valve
  3. once bottle is fully under pressure and the oxygen (air) is out
  4. switch to beer side and let it rip
  5. some foam is good, because you want to cap-on-foam // so this is a no big deal

Happy capping!

bottles_of_different_size_counter_pressure bottles_of_different_size_counter_pressure2

 

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60/5 ManBearPig Single Hop Black IPA

Manbearpig_by_ScottEwen

black_IPA

Video of pour from keg:

Brewerd on 11/1/2014:

We started with 12 gallons of total water, this is for the initial mash and then the followup sparge, we were shooting for 7 gallons, but might have been a little more, maybe 8…

OG was 1.060

FG 1.012

AVB 6.30 %

We used a 1/4 lb of hops – 3 ounces were pellet hops and 1 ounce was whole hops.  We split each by 12 and added the weight together and added that amount every 5 minutes into the boil.

video of the recirculation:

video of the boil:

from mashtun, nice and black 🙂

black_ipa_from_mash

the whole Cascade hops used in the brew.. from 2014 harvest…

tcascade_whole_hops

Sometimes the beer don’t need many different grains mixed in, you can get really good beer results from a basic set of 3 grains.  The Pale Malt will be the base of your beer, it represents 90% of your grain bill, the other 2 are your specialty grains.

If you don’t want a Black IPA, simply remove the Carafa III and add more of the 60 Crystal.

Grains:

90% pale malt
5% 60°L Crystal
5% Weyermann Carafa III Special

Make sure you use the Special Carafa III and not the normal Carafa // otherwise you’ll end up with a hoppy Stout.  Also, many brewers employ a trick where they add any dark grain in the last 5 minutes of boil or at end of boil, and let it sit for a few minutes, just enough to change the color, this way you don’t have to worry about any side effects of not hitting your goal.

  • once boil starts add hops every 5 minutes for 60 minutes
  • only Cascade hops will be used (single hop)

Use a good strain of yeast or your house yeast for this IPA Ale.  We used Wyeast American Ale 1056.

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Apricot Ale – All Grain Recipe

2018 Brew – 11 Gallon Brew

03/10/2018 / Today we brewed this recipe again, 11 gallons..

  • we used 18 lb of Copeland 2-row (native to Washington state)
  • 4 lb crystal 20 L

bittering – start of boil 1 ounce of pellet hops and 2 ounce of whole Cascade were used.

aroma/flavor – At end of 10 minutes we added 2 ounces of Saaz and 1/2 ounce of Fuggle.

White Labs California Ale Yeast was used this year.

At day 3 of fermentation, the puree from the canned apricots will be added to the fermentor.

OG 1.050 / because we brewed 1 extra gallon, 11 vs. 10 and used same amount of grain.

more update later..

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2016 Brew – 10 Gallon brew

apricot_ale

glass_hopped

On 6/4/2016 this year, we have brewed a 10 gallon version from last year, we scaled the grains and hops up by a factor of 2.  Total water used was 15.5 gallons, and to be honest I think we ended up with 11 gallons total beer.  However, this time we use canned Apricots, 5 cans total, they were already soft and super easy to create a puree (see video below) // also cost was much cheaper, 1 can costs $1, so $5 total.  At the brew store, canned Apricots extracts were much more expensive $20 – so that’s something to consider…

Yeast, since we maintain our own yeasts, we use that, saves a lot of money and we have great results, Wyeast 1056 was used.

OG 1.056 // on day 3 we added 5 cans of apricots, this for sure raised the sugar levels, but we haven’t figured out exactly how to measure that, fruit calculators do exist, but I am not sure how accurate that really is..  Fermentation was for 2 weeks, below is a 2 week fermentation plot derived from the logger and their respective fit lines.  You can see a nice spike when the fruit was added to the fermentor (blue lines are internal temps, orange external [outside the fermentor]).

2694b8d8-51d9-426a-8f23-f618c200e51a

FG 1.008

without factoring in the fruit added on day 3, final ABV 6.3% // which probably is closer to 8% 😉  when you do factor in the fruit.

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2015 Brew – 5 Gallon All Grain Recipe – Apricot Ale

This recipe is fairly easy and the finished beer is delicious!  The ABV % will range between 4 % ~ 6 % depending on how much fruit you use and what kind and the efficiency of your brew setup and the attenuation of your yeast.

http://www.whitelabs.com/beer/homebrew/beginners-attenuation-and-flocculation-definitions

OG – 1.043 // Brew Date: 6/14/2014

FG – 1.012 // Kegging and Botteling Date: 6/21/2014

We only used 2 LB of Apricots and later 4 ounces of a natural Apricot flavoring – which will most likely push the ABV up a little bit too once it is finished aging.  Normally recipe calls for 1 to 1.5 lbs of apricot fruit per each gallon of beer.

Grain:

9 lb American 2 row
2 lb Crystal 20L

Hops:

Set your timer and once a nice steady rolling boil has been achieved, then:

  • add 1 oz Cascade (at start of-boil )
  • add 1/2 Cascade or (1 OZ if you want more Hops) at last 15 minutes of Boil

– The resultant aroma is of medium strength and very distinct. It has a pleasant, flowery and spicy, citrus-like quality with a slight grapefruit characteristic. The hop is good for both flavor and aroma uses. It can also be used for bittering effectively, and can be used to make any ales.

Fruit:

2~3 lb of Canned Fruit Puree – add this to the Primary fermentation at day 3 of the fermentation.  You can also add some apricot flavorings (you can buy those at the brew store), but add this at the kegging or bottling time.

Apricot Extract/Flavoring or making your own Apricot puree (lower cost)…

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Do a test before bottling or kegging if you go with the extract: Take a dropper or pipette with mL measurements and blend a measured amount of the extract into a measured sample of beer, this will help you to find the mix ratio you like, and then simply scale up to figure out how much to add for the volume of beer that you have – most people add 4 ounces per 5 Gallon…

Yeast:

Wyeast American 1056 – we always do a starter!

 

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Grodziskie redivivus, Polish mid-16th century Historic Beer and other Polish Beer and History

a-la-grodziskie1 piwo-grodziskie

Sources: people I’ve met on G+ Community and various Beer Brewing Communities and Web sites.

Piwo = Beer.

In Polish the letters X, V, Q don’t exist and some additional letters are also present that are missing from English.  For example VODKA is really spelled Wódka – the ó letter is more related to the U letter, because of how it is pronounced.

This article takes special meaning for me specifically since I am Polish, so am planning to invest extra time into figuring out all these recipes and how to best recreate them outside of Poland.  I will write about a few things and then later I will post my own recipes after of course trying it out and confirming their result – and not just blind posting.

The „Grodziskie redivivus” Project – this is a famous mid-16th century Polish beer Recipe project, its maintained by a polish brewing community and here is the English version.

http://www.pspd.org.pl/uploads/grodziskie/grodziskie-redivivus-raport-1-eng.pdf

In Europe the metric system is observed, so you will have to translate if needed to US units for weigh/liquids and pressures.

http://science.howstuffworks.com/why-us-not-on-metric-system.htm

It goes into great details about every step to first document how it used to be done and how over time brewing has changed; and how it is done today and why.  Some key differences to take note:

  • Artesian sources (especially the water)
  • low temp fermentation
  • a lot of older breweries and even ones that exist today open-ferment all their beers (this allows for a no stress/no pressure environment that brings out a unique and natural flower bouquet of flavors, tastes and is even apparent in the final color of the beer).
  • top and bottom fermenting yeasts are mixed together for a combination
  • Regional hops are used
  • some recipes use only single malt, like the smoked oak wheat malt and most breweries malt and smoke their own grains using their traditional methods
  • these beers are typically carbonated to 3.5 volume – so make sure to use strong bottles, don’t reuse any weak bottles that don’t qualify – the bottles might crack

Here is some links to some Polish brewing forums and Breweries:

 

1v3

http://www.wiki.piwo.org – in Polish, but you can use Google translate

Here is a fairly good video (albeit a little long) – they dedicated their entire show to one of the polish beers:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qTpoJ2vL60g

Here is an active brewery that still employs a lot of the traditional ways of brewing beer, the videos are in Polish, but they do have an English version of their website:

http://www.browarfortuna.pl/en/open_fermentation/

 http://www.europeanbeerguide.net/polbrew.htm

a nice Wiki Page – http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Category:Beer_and_breweries_in_Poland

a BBC article about the beer scene in Krakow – http://www.bbc.com/travel/feature/20121130-krakow-brews-a-beer-scene-of-its-own

If you would like to include something, leave a Comment, thanks!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Irish Red Ale OR just an Celtic/Irish Ale – All Grain Recipe 5 Gallons

DSC_0001

5 gallon batch:

If you want a classic Irish Red, don’t use the Special B, replace with CaraRed 20. If your local brew store don’t carry CaraRed, look at a substitution chart for grains:

http://bsghandcraft.com/resources/malt_cross_reference_chart

Standard 60 minute mash (we use batch sparge).

OG – 1.058 – Brew Date: 04/12/2014
FG – 1.018 – Racking Date: 04/17/2014

ABV 5.25%

Golden Promise – 7 lb
Munich Malt – 3 lb
Special B – 8 oz – For Red Ale look (switch this to CaraRed 20 or use a substitute chart above)
Crystal 120 – 6 oz
Roasted Barley – 4 oz

Hops:

Once you achieve a rolling boil, set timer.

At 45 minuted add 1.5 ounce of Fuggle Hops
At 55 minutes add 1 ounce of East Kent Goldings & some Irish Moss

Yeast:

Wyeast 1084 Irish Ale Yeast – starter was prepared ahead of brew date.

65 ~ 68 F fermentation temperature.

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Golden Ale All Grain Recipe

golder_ale_kodiakbrewing

A quick and short post, recipe only.

Total volume of brew water used 8.5 gallons in this recipe, we used batch-sparge with 2 phases.

OG – 1.058 – Brew Date: 01/26/2014
FG – 1.014 – Racking Date: 02/01/2014

ABV 5.78%

This is for 5 gallons..

Cara Pils – 0.5 lb
Crystal 20 – 0.5 lb
Golden Promise – 7 lb
Munich Malt – 3 lb

Hops:

Once you achieve a rolling boil, set timer.

At 30 minuted add 1 ounce of Cascase Hops
At 45 minutes add 1 ounce of Willamette Hops
At 55 minutes add 1 ounce of Willamette Hops & some Irish Moss

At 65 minutes stop boil, reduce heat through cooling to a safe 70 ~ 75 F.

We used American Ale #1272 Wyeast.

Notes:

About the “Golden Malt” – An early-maturing spring barley, it is the Scottish equivalent of Maris Otter. Though brewers north of the English border claim that its sweet, clean flavor is superior to Maris Otter. Golden Promise malt has a depth of flavor that makes it the ideal base malt for both UK and USA-style IPAs. Golden Promise is also used extensively by premium whisky distilleries such as The Macallan.

This is a test pour out of the conditioning tank 3 weeks after racking, already looks nice and clear on its own.

golden_ale_test_pour_condition_week3

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How To Transfer beer between 2 Kegs

How To Transfer beer between 2 Kegs, video link below:

Tip: Using the Out for both Kegs, prevents beer foaming into the incoming keg as the beer fills in slowly from the bottom of the keg.

If you connect into the incoming Keg using the In – that will cause beer splashing and foaming inside the Keg.

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5 Tips to a New Home Brewer!

Tip #1 – It’s all about Kegs Man! (but don’t abandon bottling) to build-up your cellar reserves.  All brewers will quickly realize that it takes quite a bit of time to do a brew session (all day) and later even more planning needed to bottle, (cleaning, sanitizing, actual bottling time), space for all the bottles – so most people quickly switch to kegging their beer.  You can literally keg an entire 5 gallon batch in 5-10 minutes and be done with it.  But you also sooner or later realize that there are benefits to bottling, (you can give to friends, co-workers [check your local laws for giving out beer to people]), you can cellar beers for years like wine (not all beer styles apply) and create your very own private reserve label.

Buy bottles that can be cleaned and re-used, like the Grolsch-style swing-cap bottles, or just re-cap a regular beer of your choice.

Tip #2 – Don’t underestimate your brew batch size!  Most home brewers do 5 gallon batches and that is all fine and dandy, but soon your realize after all that hard work and time endured, that 5 gallons don’t last long especially when some friends come over for a party.

We usually here unless the batch is experimental, do by default 10 gallon batches, we split the 10 gallon into a 5 gallon Keg, 2.5 gallon Keg and the rest we bottle for friends and add to our aging cellar with a label imprinted and a date.

With each good confirmed batch, I bottle and put away a few bottles or maybe even a batch for long term storage.  I usually do this with higher gravity beers, because those keep well better over time like wine.  The higher alcohol percentage protects the beer from bacterial infection and overtime the chemicals interactions change the beer for the better.

Tip #3 – Age most beer styles correctly before giving it out for consumption!

Some Belgian styles need to age for 6 to 12 months! Some beers are good after about 2 months!  I did tests by opening a beer bottle at 1 month, 2 and 3 and trust me the 3 month old bottle was substantially better than the 1 month old bottle.

Even if you use the best, award-winning recipe that was repeatedly brewed for 1,000 years! – If you don’t wait and age it correctly before giving it out, people will think sub-par thoughts about your beer and your brewing skills.  Make sure to say when the beer is under-aged if you must give it out, so that people are aware.

Tip: Some aging time can be cut by filtering the beer, but there are pros and cons.

Yes there are some beers that don’t age well for longer periods of time, usually these are beers that use a lot of hops, like IPAs.  Use brown Bottles and try to cellar where temperatures are stable and there is no to little light.  Light overtime will give beer a skunky smell, so unless you brewed a hemp beer, you probably don’t want any skunk in it.

Tip #4 – Not everyone wants to join a brew club for a variety of reasons, maybe you are not that social of a person or don’t want to deal with the politics at brew clubs, fees, etc… etc.. etc.  There is plenty of good brew forums, blogs and communities for beer discussion (Google+ has many great beer communities and they are all free, just join), and watch your skills get better much faster and sooner than if you brewed alone for the next 20 years, trust me – communities have a lot of experienced brewers of all kinds that will quickly answer your questions, and point you in the right direction – saving you lots of time and money $.

Tip #5 – if you have a friend who brews, don’t be shy and ask them for help, they probably already have developed relationships with other brewers and you could get a hookup and deals on used equipment or new equipment and overall a lot of helpful tips!

Whatever you end up doing, please take extra time to think things through, SAFETY is #1.

Happy Holidays 2014!

 

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Brown Ale – All Grain Recipe

2015 brew: this year we brewed it again but we decided to split the batch in half and treat one with American Oak chips.  The beer came out fantastic with a smooth velvet clean taste, the oak came through slightly in the background – only in secondary for 3 weeks as we didn’t want an overwhelming oak profile.

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If you want a lighter Brown color, ease back on the chocolate malt.

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we also did a version treated with American Oak chips – it turn the beer velvet smooth and delicious.

oak2oak1

 

Our Recipe is based on Ellie’s Brown Ale…  We post it as is for now and then update it later with our tweaks.

Credit Link – http://averybrewing.com/brewery/recipes-for-homebrewers/

( they have others posted as well and were kind enough to share them with the public, beautiful! )

Anytime we try a new recipe that we have never brewed before, we try to look-up and use some award-winning recipe first, so that the effort is not wasted and we end up with good beer and we will consider tweaking it here and there or changing things up and down.

Also keep in mind that your local brew supply store might not have the exact grains called for in a recipe, so just adjust to the closest grain available that they have, if not sure, just ask for help, usually brew stores have knowledgeable staff.

Also, ask your self what you like in whatever style of beer you want to brew, in a Brown Ale, do you like it a darker tone of brown for the color, spices or no spices ?

OG – 1.054 – Brew Date: 01/12/2014
FG – 1.014 – Racking Date: 01/19/2014

ABV 5.25%

Hops in this recipe are rated using AAU’s, it stands for (Alpha Acid Unit), the math is to divide whatever AAU you need by the acid level printed on the label of your hops (per 1 ounce).  For example: Norther Brewer 8.6%.  So 7 AAU’s of Norther Brewer is 7 / 8.6 = 0.81 ounces of Northern Brewer (so you will need a scale), you should be fine if you round-off, but then you lose exactness of the formula, you can easily transfer the formula into Excel or some other open-source software and keep track of it there or your favorite brewing software.

Start with a base weight of say 10/11 LB for each 5 gallons or use your brewing software to tune it in more exact, [if you are ODD or just like details] and then divide/multiply the weight by the percentage needed (use basic math).

Example of a quick Excel sheet to compute totals:

quick_excel_sheet

Grains:

Pale 2-Row – 80.5%
Munich – 6.4%
C-120 – 4.2%
Honey Malt – 2.3%
Chocolate – 6.6%

Hops:

60 min – Bullion (7.6% AA) – 0.13oz
30 min – Sterling (5.1% AA) – 0.32oz
0 min – Sterling (5.1% AA) – 1.01 oz

Use your house strain for yeast, original recipe used California, but we plan to use English.

Fermentation temp – 68F (from our experience if you are not spot on, you will still get good beer, as long as you stay within an acceptable temperature range).

Happy brewing!

 

 

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