Belgian Pale Ale – 5 gallon batch

Posted on April 6, 2013 by ray kodiak

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A lighter Belgian beer, similar to a English Ale – with a medium copper color.

Not overly hoppy or malty.

Brewed on 4/7/2013 – OG was 1.059

Kegged Beer on 4/14/2013 – FG was 1.015

ABV% 5.78%

Standard mash at 152F for 30 minutes, boil for 60 minutes, ferment below 70F.

ABV / Alcohol by Volume: 5~6% +/- ( depends on the efficient of your brew equipment and your brew skills )

  • 12 lb Euroean Pale
  • 1 lb 2-row malt
  • 1 lb Victory malt
  • 1 lb Cara Munich malt
  • 1/2 lb of light sugar or honey or brown sugar – ( end of boil ), we used brown sugar
  • 1 3/4 oz Kent Golding hops – [ 1 oz at 20 minutes and 3/4 at 60 minutes ]
  • 1 1/2 oz Saaz hops – [ 1 oz at 10 minutes and 1/2 at 15 minutes ]

Use your house Belgian yeast or try: White Labs Belgian Ale (WLP550) or Abbey Ale (WLP530).

We ramp up slowly the yeast temperature starting at low 60s in the fermentor for metabolism reasons, so that the beers attenuation is not affected.

… more information will be posted later with OG, FG, thanks!

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IPA/Indian Pale Ale – All Grain – 5 Gallons

Posted on January 22, 2013 by ray kodiak

IPA

You will love this IPA, and that’s about it, there is nothing much else to say!

Of course everyone knows, but just incase – IPA = Indian Pale Ale.

Wiki: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/India_Pale_Ale

If you want to do a bigger or a smaller batch, divide all ingredients by 5 and then multiply by your batch size, (example * 1 for 1 gallon, * 3 for 3 gallons, * 10 for 10 gallons), this includes water used during mash, and sparge.

We employ a batch sparge method.

  1. The mash strike water mixed with the grains.
  2. The mash out water followed by drain.
  3. The sparge water followed by drain.

On #2 and #3 we re-circulate until the wort is nice and clear before draining off into the boiling kettle.  Google batch sparge if this is new to you or use your own method.

12 lbs 2 Row Pale
2 lbs Crystal 40
1 lb Wheat

Mash at 152 F, with total Boil time of 60 minutes.

  • 1 oz Centenial at 5 minutes from start of boil
  • 1 oz Centenial at 20 minutes from start of boil
  • 2 oz Northern Brewer at 60 minutes, end of boil

No dry hopping in this recipe, but that’s up to you!

If you are thinking how much water do you need for the initial strike and than sparge process, we used a on-line calculator to showcase how easy it to figure out, of course with time as you re-brew the same batch – you can make slight adjustment to bring it to Perfection:

http://www.brew365.com/mash_sparge_water_calculator.php

We used 5.5 gallons for strike-in and 4.33 gallons to the Sparge method we use, so total water needed for a 5 gallon batch is about 9.83 gallons or about 9 3/4 gallons…, 1/2 more than the Calculator (just incase).  Just enter the variables you know like (batch size, temperatures you will use, lb of total grain, etc…).

For yeast try to use a good house strain, so that you can re-capture it and use again and again and again, there is no need to be flushing your money $$$ down the drain every time you brew.  We are using a strain of yeast released by the brewery Rouge in Portland, OR – it’s called PACMAN by Wyeast – 0733347, details about it are below:

Beer Styles PACMAN can be used with: American Pale Ale, American Amber Ale, American Brown Ale, Brown Porter, Cream Ale, Irish Red Ale, Strong Scotch Ale, Dry Stout, American Stout, Russian Imperial Stout, American IPA, Imperial IPA, American Barleywine, Fruit Beer, Spice/Herb/or Vegetable Beer, Christmas/Winter Specialty Spice Beer, Other Smoked Beer, Wood-Aged Beer

(1.066 – 1.024) * 131 = 5.75%

OG was 1.066

FG 1.024, expected ABV 6-7 %, but will vary on your yeast/temperature, setup, skill and brew efficiency.

Remember!! No one owns beer brewing, so feel free to experinment, tweak, change away – use different hops if they are appropriate for an IPA.

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Belgian White Ale – All Grain Recipe – 10 Gallons All Grain

Posted on January 5, 2013 by ray kodiak

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 Dude, its like drinking WOW in your mouth!

( the picture above was of only a 3 week old test pour out of Keg that was cold dropped only for overnight, that’s less than 24 hours!!! – makes HUGE difference! ), beer only gets better with time!

OG 1.048 +/-
FG 1.010 +/-

We use a converted Keg into a Mashtun with a false-bottom, see pictures…  Our efficiency currently varies between 75-80%, sometimes higher.

ABV / Alcohol by Volume: 5% (rounded off)

  • 9.5 lbs Belgian Pilsner (2-row), brew store might sell it under Euro Pilsner Malt.
  • 6 lbs White Wheat Malt, brew store might sell it under American Wheat Malt.
  • 5 lbs Flaked Wheat
  • 2 oz Cascade Hops – [ 1 oz at 5 minutes and one at 30 minutes ]
  • 1 oz Orange Peel, might be sold under Bitter Orange Peel – [ 15 minutes of boil ]
  • 1 oz Coriander Seed, (crush it – store might sell it un-crushed in a plastic bag) – [ 15 minutes of boil ]

Yeast Starter was used ahead of brew day.

Total boil time is 50 minutes, if you want to do 60 minutes, the World won’t end.  Primary ferment for a week+ or until reaction finishes, Secondary recommended; but not manditory.

For yeast we used a Wyeast 3787 re-captured Trappist HG (high gravity) yeast, but the original recipe called for a White Labs# WLP40 Wit Ale.  BTW: It’s ok to use (HG high-gravity) yeast on a (LG lower-gravity) beers, but not the other way around.

8.5 gallons of strike water at 163F, maintain for an hour (60 minutes) at 152F

Then Re-Mash 6.5 gallons of additional water for 30 minutes more at 168-172, we simply filled the mash tun with 6 gallons of additional water, stir it so often and drain it off at 30 minutes, the rest gets cooled and fed to horses and chickens.  Horses especially love the mash left overs, its like Candy to them and the chickens go nuts and lay later high quality eggs.

So total water for brew 15 gallons (mash + re-mash).

For fermentation we used a 15.5 gallon keg that was converted into a fermentor rather than splitting it into multiple glass carboys or some other method.

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After fermentation is done, we split into 2 soda kegs and carbonate.

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How to cut out the top of a Beer Keg, turn it into a Keggle

Posted on December 15, 2012 by ray kodiak

Here is an affordable way to cut out the top from a industry standard 1/2 barrel (15.5 gallon keg).  I used a 4″ inch cutting wheel (rated for stainless steel) mounted inside of a 4″ grinder.  Later once hole cut out, I switch to a grinding wheel (not cutting wheel) to clean up the edges, link below to the youtube video.

You want to employ the safety shield that is installed in the grinder tool, don’t remove it.

Glide it along-side the inside rim of the keg (watch video), no template is needed.  First go around to create a mark line in the metal, if you make a mistake you can correct it, go around and do that first, don’t cut all the way in.  Once you are satisfied, then you can use the mark to easily glide along the metal and finish cutting it.

Youtube link to video is below:

Cut out Top from Keg Beer

Cheers!

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Silver Dollar Porter – All Grain Recipe

Posted on December 2, 2012 by ray kodiak

Silver Dollar Porter – O.G. 1.052 – 1.056, F.G. 1.012 – 1.016. Bitterness 43; Color 40 SRM (80 EBC)

This is a great porter to start out with if you have never brewed a porter. A full-bodied bittersweet version of the black heaven famous Anchor Porter of San Francisco.

Mash – Start with 10 quarts of water and add 1/2 the gypsum, heat water to 145F and add all the malt/barley. Temperature will stabilize at 130 to 135F, hold temp at 133F.
Add heat if necessary and hold for 30 minutes, then add 5 quarts of boiling water to the mash, should raise temp to 155F, hold at this temp for 45 minutes, always stir
occasionally. Complete the conversion by raising temp to 158F and hold it there for 10 ~ 20 minutes more… raise temp to 167F to stop the conversion.
Transfer the mash water to kettle and add 3 more gallons of sparge water to mash tun ( 170 F for sparge temp ) and add the other 1/2 half of gypsum,
in order to maximize the conversion from grain of the sweetness that we are after.

The Boil – bring to boil and add 1 ounce of Northern or Perle Hops and 1/2 ounce of Cascade hops for bittering and continue rolling boil for 50 minutes. Add Irish Moss and
boil for 8 more minutes, add the other 1/2 ounce of Cascade hosp for aroma and boil for the remainder of 2 minutes, stop the boil!

After the boil – Cool wort, transfer to fermentor, pitch yeast, If you end up with less than 5 gallons of wort, add fresh water to achieve 5 to 5 1/2 gallons.

Ferment at 70-72 degrees for 6 days or so, transfer to secondary fermentor and complete the fermentation and to settle for 7 more days. For best results
age the beer for a minimum of 50 days at 50F, colder temp – if you have a cellar, find a Cold spot in your basement (maybe in Winter), this helps to drop
the yeast out of suspension ~ helps but is not super necessary! Age the beer regardless :- )

5 gallon:

  • 8 lbs pale malted barley
  • 1lb munich malt
  • 1/2 lb crystal malt
  • 1/2 lb black parent malt
  • 1/2 lb chocolate malt
  • 1 tsp gypsum
  • 1 oz Northern Brewer or Perle hops
  • 1 oz Cascade hops, use 1/2 for bittering and 1/2 for aroma
  • 1/4 tsp Irish moss
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Copper Ale – All Grain Recipe

Posted on December 2, 2012 by ray kodiak

Copper Ale, 5.2% Alcohol, OG 1.052, Avg IBU 31 [time to ready 6 weeks] – use 1.25 quarts per lb of grain for Mash, then 1/2 gallon per pound of grain for the Sparge.

Total boil after mashing – 1 hour.

  • 10 lbs domestic 2 row
  • 8 oz Munich
  • 2 oz Roasted
  • 6 oz Caramel 80L
  • 1/2 oz Chinook hops – add start of boil
  • 1 oz Willamette hops – after 45 minutes
  • ( dry yeast or liquid yeasts: Wyeast German Ale, White Labs German Ale or German Ale)
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Noble Trappist Ale (Belgian) – All Grain Recipe

Posted on December 2, 2012 by ray kodiak

Noble Trappist Ale (Belgian), 5.3% Alcohol, OG 1.053, Avg IBU 37 [time to ready 2 months] – use 1.25 quarts per lb of grain for Mash, then 1/2 gallon per pound of grain for the Sparge.

Total boil after mashing – 1 hour.

  • 9 lbs domestic 2 row (grain)
  • 8 oz Caramel 40 (grain)
  • 8 oz Carapils
  • 2 oz Hallertau hops – add at start of boil
  • 1 oz Styrian Golding hops – last 2 minutes of boil
  • Additional items: 1 lb Light Belgian Candi
  • ( dry yeast or liquid yeasts: Wyeast German Ale, White Labs German Ale or German Ale)
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a 10% Belgian Tripple Ale – 5 Gallon All Grain Recipe

Posted on December 2, 2012 by ray kodiak

10_belgian_tripple

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Belgian Triple Ale

In case you are wondering if a 10% ABV beer would taste different, this one doesn’t really, and YES! a single glass WILL KICK YOUR ASS!  This is NOT a Coors Light, drink slow and responsibly – or Else!  😉

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tripel

Most pubs/breweries sell this beer by the glass only, (if they have it at all).

This traditional Tripel recipe has a white, creamy head. The aroma has elements of malt and citrus, which lead to a mildly sweet orange flavor.  Try to substitute grain as close as possible if your store don’t carry exact grain type in recipe.

Age: 4 months minimum, up to 12 months.

60 minute standard mash – our extraction efficiency was at 75%, efficiency on higher gravity beers goes down.

Our OG – 1.092, FG – 1.018

9.71% ABV

  • 17 lbs domestic Pilsner // in last recipe we used German Pilsner Malt as substitution.
  • 8 oz Euro Caravienne
  • 4 oz Euro Aromatic

Hops / Additional ingredients:

Once you achieve a rolling boil, set timer:

  • At start-of-boil add 1.5 oz of Styrian Golding Hops and 1.5 lb of Light Belgian Candi
  • At 45 minute of boil add some Irish Moss
  • At 5 minutes end-of-boil, add 1 oz of Sweet Orange Peel
  • At 2 minutes end-of-boil, add 0.5 oz of Willamette Hops

Yeast:

Make a starter ahead of your brew session, we do ours 1 week ahead by making a whole bunch of extra yeast and then splitting it in half ( half to brew session and the other into storage jars – saves money on buying yeasts and beats washing yeasts after fermentation ).

Wyeast Trappist High Gravity Yeast #3787, also you can try:

Wyeast Belgian Abbeyor or White Labs Belgian Ale yeasts.

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Belgium Beers

Posted on December 1, 2012 by ray kodiak

We here at Kodiak LOVE!!!!! Belgium type of beers.  Our favorite is the Belgian Dark Strong Ale in the Winter months and in the summer months we like to brew the slightly lighter style, the Belgian Tripple Ale, which is on the lighter side of color, with a hint of orange spices.  The Belgian’s are enormously delicious beers, and to us, nothing compares!!!  sure we like other style too, but we feel like a King of the Bears in the woods when we drink the Belgians!

It is also true that the Belgian’s are typically higher in Alcohol content, but I can’t imagine anyone complaining about that!  If its good enough for a monk, it should be good enough for you!

Anyways, everything said – we really think it is important to understand the History of the different beer styles and regions they come from, especially if the Belgian’s are also your favorite beer too, because here specifically, there is a lot of History!

Wikipedia just so happens to have a great page already written about this and so without further delay here is the link, Cheers!

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Beer_in_Belgium

 

 

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Re-Using Re-Capture Yeast after fermenting, Beer Home Brew

Posted on November 23, 2012 by ray kodiak

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This process comes under different names, re-using, re-capturing, rinsing, cleaning, etc.. etc., but basically after you remove the beer from the fermentor – there is a lot of nice and high quality yeast that is left over.  You can re-capture this yeast and use it again and again, and again……

Benefits are many!

  • save money, high quality yeast usually costs $8 a pack, so you can reduce the bill of each brew batch substantially
  • to brew a stable beer that comes out the same all the time, it is important to use the same strain of yeast to be consistent
  • you can easily make a lot more yeast than what you started out with from the packet, so if you wanted to say brew a bigger batch of beer, say 10 or 20 gallons, there is no need to buy 4 packets at $8 each – because you can easily make that your self
  • the yeast becomes better over time and creates even better beer, the more you re-capture the same yeast, the better the yeast becomes

It is best to collect yeast strain that you will use frequently, because if you collect some rare yeast that you don’t use a lot, just be prepared to use more real estate space in the fridge and potential stares from the wife (unless you have a dedicated fridge).  And so it is best to collect a house/classic strain, that works over broad temperatures.

Here is how we do it at Kodiak.  We put two clear growlers filled with water already into a nice 3 gallon cooking pot (also filled with water) and we heat that up to boiling and let it boil for 15 minutes.  Turn off heat, let it sit for a minute or two and remove the growlers out of the pot with a heat glove and put it on the side to cool.  Put caps on it but don’t tighten them, let them cool!

ALL the water that will make contact with the leftovers needs to be cool, it can’t be hot!!!

We like to transfer the bottom stuff let over from the fermentor into the cooking pot that we just used.   So pour in some water into the fermentor from the pot and shake it well, then transfer the ingredients from the glass carboy into the (empty) cooking pot, put a lid on it.  Let it sit for a good 30 minutes to separate out into layers, see below:

You will have water mixed with beer as the clear liquid on top, then a nice light layer of yeast, and a darker layer at the bottom of throb (left over beer reaction stuff)…

You want to get rid of the beer/water mix if there is an excessive amount out, and pour in the rest into 1 of the empty growlers. As you are pouring into growler #1 the lighter yeast layer towards the end of that, the throb will start (the darker stuff).  You don’t want to transfer the throb out of the pot or (however you do it), leave that behind, that’s the whole idea between doing the layer washing, leave the throb behind, the darker lowest layer.  If some transfers, that’s ok; but leave the majority of it!

Put in some clean fresh water from the boil into that and shake well and let it sit in the growler again for 30 minutes.

Here is how the growler will look after transfer, after shaking, looks like mud….

After 30 minutes pour the contents (using the same method) into the 2nd growler, let it sit there for 30 minutes.  If you have more empty clean growlers you could give it a 3rd transfer, but we at this point just leave it as is, label the growler and put into fridge!

Here is how the layer looks after separating in the 1st growler:

See that nice light layer at the bottom ?  that’s what you are after.  In this example and article, we actually didn’t even employ transferring into the 2nd growler, because this works so well!

Keep in mind that the yeast that you just recovered, there is much more of it than when you started from the yeast packet that you bought for $8 at the brew store.  Some people divide into smaller jars, where each jar = 5 gallon batch, but we just leave as is.

On the label I would also put the date of the re-capture!

Before using this yeast, make a starter!

In addition to our method others exists.

Cheers!

make your own search too!

 

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